The adelgid is a relative of aphids that was accidentally imported form Asia. It feeds mainly on Canadian and Carolina hemlock. A visible, cottony wax is produced by the female insects in September and October. The following spring, the female lays her eggs under the cover of the waxy material. In April through June, the eggs hatch and small reddish brown crawlers begin to feed on the sap of new twigs. In only a few weeks, the juveniles mature into grey-coloured adults. Some of the adults have wings and fly to other nearby trees, while others remain on the original tree to lay new eggs and create a new generation. The second generation hatches in late July, becoming dormant in late summer, and then begins to feed again in the fall. As their sap is sucked out by the adelgid, the branches begin to die, which can result in entire trees dying within a few years.

Recommended Control Steps

The adelgid is protected by its waxy coating much of the time, but it is susceptible to insecticides when crawlers are active in the spring and the fall. To control the insect, it is best to spray with Take Down Garden Spray when they are in the crawling state. If you live in an area where adelgids are present, it is also important to regularly monitor trees, especially Hemlock trees, so that treatments can be applied as early as possible. For trees that are too tall to spray, treat them with Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit, in the early spring.

Ants are often found in the house, as well as around the garden. They are generally attracted to sugars, sweets, and other food sources. In the case of trees, ants often do not cause the problems but can be found after another insect or disease has attacked the tree and caused tree sap to become exposed and available to the ants. The ant colonies are often built underground in the garden or under building foundations.

Recommended Control Steps

The best way to destroy the colonies is to use Diatomaceous Earth in and around the colony, and Hasta La Vista, Ant! as bait to attract and kill moving ants. Gardens and outdoor areas can be sprayed with Monterey Termite and Carpenter Ant Control Spray, to help control the movement of the ants. If ants are on trees, their presence is likely a symptom of another insect attack, which should first be identified and treated.

Aphids Kansas State University Extension Service	Typical soft-bodied aphid on pine US Forest Service

Aphids, when in small numbers, do little damage to a tree, however, under favourable conditions the aphid population can grow very rapidly and cause serious damage to the tree during the growing season. Aphids attack trees by sucking the sap out of the leaves. The symptoms are very visible on the leaves in the form of multiple puckered marks, yellowing, and twisting of the leaves which gives the appearance of deformed leaves. As the severity of the aphid infestation increases, leaf drop and twig and branch die back can be seen.

Often during an aphid infestation, leaves appear to be dripping sap from the underside. This is actually an excretion from the aphids and is called honeydew. It often drips onto other leaves, other plants and on to the ground. The honeydew then becomes an attractant to ants which feed on it. In most cases the ants are only symptoms of the honeydew and are not actually attacking or hurting a tree.

Recommended Way to Control Aphids:

Aphids can be controlled using newer and safer insecticides, rather than older more harmful chemicals. For major outbreaks spray the tree with either Bug Buster or Trounce. The spray should be directed at the undersides of the leaves and other areas of visible feeding and insect concentrations. Normally only one or two spray treatments are required to achieve control. For less severe infestations or as a preventative treatment, spray the leaves with Insecticidal Soap in the early summer and as needed. For trees that are too tall to spray, use the Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit

These are the worms of the apple maggot fly. The signs of apple maggots are often malformed, shrunken, or shriveled fruit. Often, the apples are rotten and pulpy and holes appear in the fruit. The worms are tapered, yellowy-white, legless, and about Ľ inch long, or smaller. Apple maggots attack apple, plum, cherry, and pear trees

The adult flies are about half the size of common houseflies and are black, with dark bands on their clear wings. The adult flies appear in the late spring for about 1 month and they lay eggs in the apples through holes they puncture in the skin of the fruit. The eggs then hatch into maggots that tunnel through the fruit. The mature maggots then drop to the ground and burrow into the soil to pupate. In the spring they emerge from the soil as mature flies.

Recommended Control Steps

It is impossible to control the worms during the current season’s fruit, but they can be prevented or reduced over the year. Apple Maggot Traps lure and capture the mature flies, thereby controlling them. The traps should be set out early in the spring, about mid-April, because the flies lay their eggs in the new fruit during the late spring and early summer period.

Also, as soon as the flies appear, spray the area with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray. Repeat the process every seven days or so. You can also reduce the spread of apple maggot larvae by collecting and removing any fruit that falls to the ground.

A new and potentially serious threat to some of North America’s most beautiful and popular trees is the Asian Long-horned Beetle (Anoplophora glabripennis). Native to parts of Asia, the beetle is believed to have arrived in North America in the wooden packing material used in cargo shipments from China. Isolated Asian Long-horned Beetle infestations have been discovered in Brooklyn and Amityville, New York, and in Chicago, Illinois. In all instances where Asian Long-horned Beetles have been found, authorities have reacted quickly to stop the infestation from spreading.

Trees favored by the Asian Long-horned Beetle are predominantly maples, but infestations have also been discovered in horse chestnuts, poplars, willows, elms, mulberries, black locusts, and many other varieties.

Asian Long-horned Beetles are very large insects, with bodies ranging from 1 to 1 ˝ inches (2.5-4 cm) in length and with antennae which can be as long as four inches (10 cm). They are shiny and black with white spots and have long antennae that are banded black and white. These beetles have wings and can fly, although only for short distances because of their size and weight. The Asian Long-horned Beetle, like all types of borringinsects, are extremely destructive because, as the beetle larvae burrow deep within a tree to feed, they disrupt the tree’s vascular system. Continued feeding causes structural defects in the tree and eventually kills the life-sustaining cambial layer by girdling. Mature beetles then burrow out of the tree, leaving holes the diameter of ball-point pens. Active Asian Long-horned Beetle infestations, if left untreated, can quickly kill otherwise healthy adult trees.

Mature beetles emerge from trees beginning in late May and lasting through October, peaking in July. Tree infestations can be detected by looking for tell-tail exit holes 3/8 to ľ inches in diameter (1.5-2 cm) often in the larger branches of the crowns of infested trees. Sometimes sap can be seen oozing from the exit holes with coarse sawdust or ‘frass’ evident on the ground or lower branches.

Recommended Control Steps

If a tree has been attacked by Asian Long-horned Beetles, immediately apply the Multi-Insect Killer Tree Injection Kit which is injected directly into the tree’s vascular system. To protect trees that are located in an area of Asian Long-horned Beetle outbreaks, apply the Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit early in the spring to help provide protection throughout the growing season.

Boring insects are less likely to attack strong healthy trees, so a proper fertilizing and watering program using the TreeHelp Annual Care Kit is recommended to ensure trees are strong and healthy, and to help trees that have been attacked repair damage done by the boring insect.

When a tree is infested with bagworms, it is very common for many of the leaves to be chewed, and in major outbreaks the tree may be entirely defoliated. Another visible sign of bagworms is the appearance of brown or tan colored bags from some of the branches. When the bags are cut open, they often contain either developed caterpillars or small grub-like nymphs.

Recommended Control Steps

There are several ways to control bagworms. Handpick and destroy as many bags as possible in the winter, to reduce the number of eggs. In the spring (mid-May to late June), spray the tree with the Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad. This is a safe spray and approved for organic gardening.

During the remainder of the season, i.e. after spraying in the spring to control the juvenile bagworms, it is more difficult to control the adult worms, but repeat sprayings about every two to three weeks with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray will significantly reduce the adult population.

The adelgid is a relative of aphids and was accidentally imported form Asia. It feeds mainly on Canadian and Carolina hemlock. The visible, cottony wax is produced by the female insects in September and October. The following spring the female lays her eggs under the cover of the waxy material. In April through June the eggs hatch and small reddish brown crawlers begin to feed on the sap of the new, young twigs. The juveniles mature fast into grey coloured adults in only a few weeks. Some of the adults have wings and fly to other nearby trees, while others remain on the original tree to lay new eggs and create a new generation. The second generation hatches in late July, become dormant in late summer and then begins to feed again in the fall. As the branches are attached and their sap is sucked out by the adelgid, branches begin to die and entire trees can die within a few years.

Recommended Control Steps

The adelgid is protected by its waxy coating much of the time but is susceptible to insecticides when crawlers are active in the spring and the fall. It is best to spray with Take Down Garden Spray to control the insect when they are in the crawling state. It is also important to regularly monitor trees especially Hemlock trees, if you live in an area where adelgid are present, so that treatments can be applied as early as possible. For trees that are too tall to spray, treat with Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit in the early spring.

Recently, many urban areas have experienced an outbreak of bedbugs. They can easy be transported on furniture, in luggage, clothes, etc.. Once established, bed bugs are difficult to control in homes and apartment buildings.

Recommended Control Steps

To help control for bed bugs:

1. Reduce clutter in the area so that regular inspection and monitoring is easier
2. Remove personal items such as stuffed toys, extra blankets etc. from the sleeping area
3. Wash clothing in hot water
4. Caulk and seal any holes near pipes, electrical outlets and baseboards where bedbugs can travel between living quarters
5. Apply Diatomaceous Earth in all potential hiding spots for the bed bugs, including bed frames
6. Vacuum regularly, and discard vacuum cleaner bag in a sealed plastic bag after each vacuuming.

There are many types of beetles that will attack trees, plants, and grass. Most beetles can be controlled effectively through a program of regular spraying.

Recommended Control Steps

Two products that can be used effectively to control most beetles are Safer's End-All II Miticide & Insecticide and Take Down Garden Spray. Repeat spray every ten to fourteen days.

Birdseed moths are the same moths that are often called flour or pantry moths An infestation by birdseed moths can be can be identified by the presence of the small flour moths (Indian Meal Moth, Mediterranean Moths, Almond Moth, or Raisin Moth) flying in or near the bird seed, or in the form of the small worm larvae within the seed. The larvae normally appear as small brown or yellowish worms, about 1 and ˝ inches in length.

Recommended Control Steps

Dispose of or freeze for about 48 hours any birdseed that is infested. Store all birdseed in dry, tightly sealed plastic, glass, or metal containers. Use one of the listed pheromone-based Bird Seed Moth Traps to capture flying moths before they mate and for early detection of an infestation.

Root weevils are a serious pest of ornamental trees, barriers, and grass. Both the adult and larval stages of the black vine weevil and root weevil cause damage. The adult weevils generally feed at night, chewing the edges of the tree or plant’s leaves. In the summer, the females lay hundreds of eggs in the soil at the base of plants. As the juvenile white grubs emerge they begin to eat the lower foliage or burrow deeper into the soil to feed on the roots. The grubs over-winter in the soil and emerge the following spring to resume feeding. Most plant damage is caused during the spring feeding. In the case of trees and shrubs, the most harmful damage is done when the grubs feast on the ends of the roots and prevent large trees from taking up adequate moisture and nutrients.

Recommended Control Steps

Since the grubs are normally protected by the soil, most control steps are focused on controlling the adults before they mate. As soon as the adults emerge from the soil, spray all the plants and grass in the area with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray. Repeat the spray every ten to fourteen days.

In cases of large infestations attacking mature trees, apply the Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit early in the spring to help protect the roots against feeding by the grubs.

There are many different types of insects that fall into the boring insect category, including the Asian Long-horn Beetle, Elm Bark Beetle, Birch borer, to mention just a few. The damage can be caused by the insect itself as it tunnels in the tree, as well as the larvae which also tunnel within the phloem and cambium layers, after emerging from their eggs. The borers’ tunneling weakens and kills trees by interrupting the flow of sap.

Evidence of borer infestation is a progressive thinning of the crown of the tree beginning at the top as well as distinct holes and slight sawdust on the tree’s trunk. Trees generally die after about two or three years, that is, after two or three infestations by the larvae.

Recommended Control Steps

If caught early enough, immediately apply the Multi-Insect Killer Tree Injection Kit treatment to the tree. This insecticide is injected directly into the tree’s vascular system and is released quickly to help control insects already inside the vascular system.

To prevent repeated borer attacks and in areas of known birch borer activity, a number of steps can be taken to prevent attacks in healthy trees. In the early spring, treating the tree with the Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit helps protect the tree’s vascular system. This treatment can be supplemented by regularly spraying (every three to three weeks) the tree’s trunk with a good dosage of Borer-Miner Killer, thus creating a barrier to reduce further insect penetration through the bark.

The good news is that healthy, well-situated, well-maintained, and healthy trees are normally more resistant to the borer, as well as less of a target. Trees under stress are more likely to be borer targets, so it is important to ensure that birch trees receive adequate water. To help ensure that a tree is healthy, apply a TreeHelp Annual Care Kit in the spring or early summer which contains the appropriate fertilizer.

Boxelder Bugs are brownish black bugs, about ˝ inch in length, with small red stripes on their wings. They are common throughout North America and are most often identified because they tend to congregate or swarm when found in the garden or in the home.

It is very common for Boxelder Bugs to infest furniture, draperies, walls, walkways, and other objects inside and outside of the home. They are most common in areas where there are boxelder trees because the females lay their eggs in the bark of boxelders, but also in ash, maples, and fruit trees. The juvenile Boxelder bugs feed on new tender foliage and twigs and can place significant stress on young trees and plants. In the fall, the Boxelder bug is attracted to tree trunks, homes, and other buildings that offer dry protected areas for winter hibernation.

Recommended Control Steps

During the summer, spray with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray and repeat the spraying every ten to fourteen days to achieve control. If the bugs are indoors on furniture, vacuum the bugs up and then empty and destroy the vacuum bag. If the Boxelder bugs are attacking indoor plants, spray every ten to fourteen days with Safer's End-All II Miticide & Insecticide.

Of the number of pests which are attracted the birch trees, the bronze birch borer (Agrilus anxius) is the most important as it is both lethal and difficult to control. As an adult, the borer is a small bronze coloured beetle up to 2 inches (5cm) in length. The damage, though, is not caused by the beetle itself but by the larvae which bore into the phloem and cambium layers after emerging from their eggs on the bark. The borers' tunneling weakens and kills trees by interrupting the flow of sap. The entire lifecycle of the borer is one year from egg to beetle.

Evidence of borer infestation is a progressive thinning of the crown of the tree beginning at the top. Trees generally die after about two or three years, that is, after two or three infestations by the larvae.

Recommended Control Steps

If caught early enough, immediately apply the Multi-Insect Killer Tree Injection Kit to the tree. This insecticide is injected directly into the tree’s vascular system and released quickly to help control insects already inside the vascular system.

To prevent repeated borer attacks and in areas of known birch borer activity, a number of steps can be taken to prevent attacks in healthy trees. In the early spring, treating the tree with the Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit helps protect the tree’s vascular system. This treatment can be supplemented by regularly spraying (every three to three weeks) the tree’s trunk with a good dosage of Borer-Miner Killer, thus creating a barrier to reduce further insect penetration through the bark.

The good news is that healthy, well-situated, well-maintained birches are more resistant to the borer. Females prefer to lay eggs in the sunlight and are less attracted to trees whose trunks are shaded. The insects are also attracted to tree wounds and so care should be taken to avoid damaging the bark of trees. Finally, trees under stress are more likely to be successful borer targets, so it is important to ensure that birch trees receive adequate water. To help ensure that a birch tree is healthy, apply the TreeHelp Annual Care Kit for Birch trees in the spring or early summer.

In addition, not all birch varieties are equally susceptible to the bronze birch borer. The European white birch and gray birch are considered most vulnerable, the paper or canoe birch less so, and the river birch seems to be relatively resistant.

The brown soft scale insect is generally found on the trunk, foliage, and, sometimes, the fruit. It looks like small crusty, waxy, or smooth bumps about a Ľ inch or smaller in size. Several of the bumps can be clustered together making the scale look larger. The leaves of infested trees yellow and often drop, and a shiny sticky substance can coat the leaves. The presence of soft brown scale can also cause black sooty mold to grow on the sticky (honeydew) substance.

The scale insects harm the tree by constantly sucking sap from the tree’s vascular system, thus placing stress on the tree and reducing its natural growth and fruit production cycles.

Scale insects over-winter on the trunk and twigs of the tree and do not move throughout their lifecycle once they are established. In the spring or early summer, juvenile nymphs emerge and slowly move to other areas of the tree. This movement in the nymph stage is the only time that they are mobile during their lives, it is also the time that they are most vulnerable to insecticides.

Recommended Control Steps

In the fall and early spring, spray the tree with Horticultural Oil Insect Spray, which will serve to suffocate established scale. In the spring and early summer, when the nymphs are active, spray the tree with Take Down Garden Spray. Repeat the spraying every ten to fourteen days.

The budworm, especially the Spruce Budworm, is very disruptive to ornamental trees, including spruce, fir, Douglas fir, pine, larch, and hemlock. The budworm attacks the tree by chewing the ends of new tender needles. If infested by mid-July, the ends of the branches look reddish brown and the needles look clustered or webbed together. Repeated infestations can cause branches to die and, over several years, the tree may also die.

The budworms appear as green or reddish brown caterpillars about 1 and Ľ inch in length. Budworm infestations normally occur in cycles that last a few years. During outbreaks, it is important to take steps to control budworms, to limit their degree of damage.

Recommended Control Steps

In late spring and early summer, spray the tree with Borer-Miner Killer or Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad. Repeat the spraying every ten to fourteen days, until early August.

Recommended Control Steps

At the first sign of cabbageworm, spray with Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad or Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray, and repeat the spray every two to three weeks, until the feeding period has ended.

There are both Fall and Spring Cankerworms, which are often called inchworms or loopers. Cankerworms are easily identified because they only have feet at their front and rear, and they move by moving their rear portion forward in an arching motion. The cankerworms eat tree leaves for about five weeks, during the summer. Repeated defoliation on a mature tree severely weakens the tree to the point it may die or it becomes more susceptible to another fatal disease.

Recommended Control Steps

At the first sign of cankerworms, spray the tree with Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad or Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray, and repeat the spray every two to three weeks until the feeding period has ended. In the fall, remove any visible egg nests or spray them with Horticultural Oil Insect Spray. In the spring place a sticky TreeHelp Bug Bandon the trunk of the tree to prevent the cankerworm from migrating from the ground up towards the tree’s leaves.

In the early spring, treat trees that are too tall to spray with Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit, to provide insect protection throughout the growing season.

Carpenter ants are small brown or black ants, sometimes with wings and sometimes without. They are usually about ˝ inch long and are seen in or around the house, often close to wood foundations and structures. A telltale sign of carpenter ants, termites, or other wood-consuming insects are piles of sawdust near verandas, wood windows, and supporting beams. Another common characteristic are slit-like holes in the wood.

Carpenter ants, like other wood boring insects, can be found throughout North America. They target damp, decaying wood and create large cavities in which they make their nests. Unlike woodborer insects, the carpenter ant does not eat the sawdust, but instead bores into the wood in search of sap, insects, and pollen. In addition to causing significant wood damage, carpenter ants can also inflict painful bites on humans and animals. As a colony grows and expands, it is normal for part of the colony to migrate to a nearby structure or home. It is very important for homeowners to take preventative steps if they are aware that carpenter ants have attacked a nearby home or building.

Recommended Steps to Control Carpenter Ants

To control Carpenter Ants in a localized area, treat the wood in that area with Monterey Termite and Carpenter Ant Control Spray. It can either be sprayed or painted onto the targeted wood.

To control the migration of a colony or to create a preventative perimeter, apply the Monterey Termite and Carpenter Ant Control as a soil drench, creating a three to ten foot perimeter around the building, as well as spraying the foundation of the building to a depth of about three feet.

There are many types of caterpillars that attack mature trees by eating their leaves and defoliating them. The repeated defoliation of a mature tree places it under significant stress and makes the tree more vulnerable to other diseases or aggressive insects such as boring insects, which can cause mortality.

Recommended Steps to Control Caterpillars on Trees

At the first sign of caterpillars on the tree, spray with Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad or Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray and repeat the spray every two to three weeks, until the feeding period has ended. In the fall, remove any visible egg nests or spray them with Horticultural Oil Insect Spray. In the spring, place a sticky TreeHelp Bug Bandon the trunk of the tree to prevent the caterpillars from migrating from the ground up towards the tree’s leaves.

In the early spring, treat trees that are too tall to spray with Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit, to provide insect protection throughout the growing season.

Their many legs can easily identify centipedes. Most centipedes are about an inch long and have at least fifteen pairs of legs. Centipedes do not harm plants and generally only need to be controlled if they are infesting your home. Centipedes are often beneficial to gardeners because they help control snails and other small insects.

The signs of cherry fruit worms are often, malformed, shrunken, or shriveled fruit. Often, the cherries are rotten and pulpy and holes appear in the fruit. The worms are tapered, yellowy white, legless, and about Ľ inch long, or smaller.

These are the worms of the adult flies. The adult flies are about half the size of common houseflies, are black with dark bands on their clear wings. The adult flies appear in the late spring for about a month and they lay eggs in the cherries through holes they puncture in the skin of the fruit. The eggs then hatch into maggots that tunnel through the fruit. The mature maggots then drop to the ground and burrow into the soil to pupate. In the spring, they emerge from the soil as mature flies.

Recommended Steps to Control Cherry Fruit Worms and Flies

It is impossible to control the worms during the current season’s fruit, but they can be prevented or reduced over the year. In the spring, place Apple Maggot Traps out to capture the mature flies. The apple maggot trap and lure will work to attract and control the flies. The traps should be placed out early in the spring, around mid-April, as the flies lay their eggs during the late spring and early summer period in the new fruit.

Also as soon as the flies appear, spray the area with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray. Repeat the process every seven days, or so. You can also reduce the spread of cherry fruit worm larvae by collecting and removing any fruit that falls to the ground.

Chinch bugs can cause significant damage to grass by attacking and eating the root system. Grass that is being attacked by chinch bugs will show wilting, yellowing, and death, most often in grass located in warm sunny areas. To test for chinch bugs, cut both ends off a tin can, then push one end of the can into the soil to a depth of about 3 inches. Fill the can with water and watch for small black or brown insects about Ľ inch long to emerge or float to the top of the water within about ten minutes. Both the adults and juvenile nymphs feed on the grass roots and, when doing so, they inject the roots with a toxin that causes the yellowing and die-back.

Recommended Steps to Control Chinch Bugs

Cut the grass short and then give the lawn a good watering by applying ˝ to 1 inch of water to the lawn. The watering will bring the bugs to the surface. Immediately after the watering, spray the area with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray. Repeat the treatment every two months, until late fall. In warm climates, treat year-round.

Cicadas are large dark-bodied insects that are up to one and a half inches long, with transparent wings. The presence of cicadas is often identified by the loud, strong sounds made by the male cicadas. Damage is done by the cicadas in three ways 1) adults chew into and suck the sap from young twigs; 2) juvenile cicadas live on or in soil, and chew and suck sap from a tree’s roots, thus placing significant stress on the tree; and 3) the most damaging is from the female burrowing into branches to lay eggs. When laying eggs, the female cicadas will make dozens of holes into the tree to lay eggs, with each of the dozens or even hundreds of holes disrupting the tree’s vascular system. In some cases, making so many holes that the branch will physically break.

Recommended Steps to Control Cicadas

At the first sign of the male singing, spray the tree with Borer-Miner Killer spray. Repeat the spray after seven days, and continue as necessary. Cut off and destroy any branches that are severely infested with egg holes.

The citrus scale insect is generally found on the trunk, foliage, and, sometimes, fruit. It looks like small crusty, waxy, or smooth bumps about a Ľ inch or smaller in size. Several of the bumps can be clustered together making the scale look larger. The leaves of infested trees yellow and often drop, and a shiny sticky substance can coat the leaves. The presence of citrus scale can also cause black sooty mold to grow on the sticky (honeydew) substance.

The scale insects harm the tree by constantly sucking sap from the tree’s vascular system, thus placing stress on the tree and reducing its natural growth and fruit production cycles.

Scale insects over-winter on the trunk and twigs of the tree and do not move throughout their lifecycle, once they are established. In the spring or early summer, juvenile nymphs emerge and slowly move to other areas of the tree. This movement in the nymph stage is the only time that they are mobile during their lives, it is also the time that they are most vulnerable to insecticides.

Recommended Steps to Control Citrus Scale

In the fall and early spring, spray the tree with Horticultural Oil Insect Spray, which will serve to suffocate established scale. In the spring and early summer, when the nymphs are active, spray the tree with Take Down Garden Spray. Repeat the spraying every ten to fourteen days.

Recommended Steps to Control Citrus Weevil

Since the grubs are normally protected by soil, most control steps are focused on controlling the adults before they mate. As soon as the adults emerge from the soil, spray the tree and all the plants and grass in the area with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray. Repeat the spray every ten to fourteen days.

In cases of large infestations attacking mature trees, apply Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit early in the spring to help protect the roots against feeding by the grubs. If using Once A Year Drench, it is recommended to not consume the fruit during that growing season.

Cockroaches thrive in areas where there are dark, cool, damp locations where they can nest during the day and have adequate food available for nighttime feeding. So, cockroach infestations are common in bathrooms, kitchens, and other areas of the home that provide adequate food and protection during the day. Prime locations for cockroaches to be found are under sinks, refrigerators, and water heaters, in wall voids, and around leaking pipes.

Recommended Steps to Control Cockroaches

To control cockroaches, ensure all food sources are removed or sealed in glass, steel, or heavy plastic containers. Do not leave food scraps or pet food out overnight. Fix leaking pipes, and close cracks and openings in and around baseboards and pipe fittings.

Dust all potential daytime resting areas with Diatomaceous Earth, including under refrigerators, under sinks, etc.. Place Victor Roach Magnets throughout the infested area, to both reduce the population and monitor for future outbreaks.

The codling moth is the most common insect to attack apples, but it will also attack other fruit trees such as pears and nut trees, including walnuts. When a tree is attacked by codling moths, the fruit is blemished by small holes surrounded by dead tissue. A small sawdust-like material is often found around the holes made by codling moth larvae. Small brown-headed, pinkish-white worms about an inch long are often found in fruit that has been infested by codling moths.

In the spring, close to when the tree is in blossom, the mature codling moths can be seen flying around the tree, most active late in the day, at twilight. In the spring, the mature moths lay their eggs on leaves, twigs, and developing fruit. When the eggs hatch, the larvae emerge and begin to tunnel into the fruit. After feeding for a few weeks, they emerge and will quickly lay a second generation of eggs, in mid-summer. Due to the multiple generations over the season, the fruit can be damaged throughout the season.

Recommended Steps To Control Codling Moths and Larvae

Once the worms have penetrated the fruit or nuts, it is impossible to kill them. To protect uninfected fruit and nuts, at the first sign of the moths in the spring, spray with Borer-Miner Killer every seven to ten days, throughout the growing season. Remove any fallen fruit from the ground.

Use BioCare Codling Moth Traps to determine the presence of Codling moths and the need to spray, as well as to reduce the moth population. Normally, two traps per tree are recommended.

Tree crickets are long, slender insects about ľ inch in length. They are normally a light greenish color but can also be whitish or brown. They live in trees and feed mainly on smaller insects, such as aphids. If the population explodes, they may also begin to feed on foliage.

In a normal season, the only time that a cricket harms plants is in the fall, when the female bores into twigs to lay her eggs. Twig dieback can occur as a result of the egg laying.

Recommended Steps to Control Crickets

Under normal circumstances no control is needed. To protect valuable plants apply Diatomaceous Earth as needed.

Earwigs are hard, flattened, reddish brown insects up to an inch long, with long antler-like pincers on their heads. Earwigs feed on a wide range of plants, ripe fruits, and small twigs. Young earwigs feed on the edges of new tender leaves.

Earwigs are nocturnal insects, feeding at night, and hiding during the days in cool damp places.

Recommended Steps to Control Earwigs

If you believe that your trees and plants are being attacked by earwigs, inspect them at night with a flashlight. To control for earwigs, spray the plants and trees with Safer's Insecticidal Soap or Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray. Repeat the spraying every seven to ten days, until the problem is controlled. Use Earwig Traps in the garden and indoors, as a way to monitor for earwigs and to capture them. To control for earwigs in the home, use Diatomaceous Earth and Safer's End-All II Miticide & Insecticide. To control earwigs feeding on trees, use the TreeHelp Bug Band to prevent the insects from crawling up the trees.

The elm bark beetle (not to be confused with the Elm Leaf Beetle) is by far the most important factor in the spread of Dutch Elm Disease (DED).

These tiny insects’ lives revolve around elm trees. The female beetle tunnels into the tree between the bark and the wood to lay its eggs. When the eggs hatch, the larvae tunnel farther into the tree, to feed before emerging as mature beetles. 

Adults feed in the crown of the tree, moving from tree to tree before breeding again.

If a beetle breeds or feeds in a DED-infected tree, the sticky spores of the fungus become attached to its back. When the beetle moves to a healthy tree, so do the spores.

There are two species of the elm bark beetle in North America – the European and the Native elm bark beetles. The European is more sensitive to temperature and lives mainly in southern regions. The Native is dominant in the mid-west.

The native elm bark beetle consists of two separate breeding groups. One group over-winters as larvae in the breeding tunnels, while the second group over-winters as adults. These adults emerge from mid-April to mid-May. It is their feeding phase that causes the majority of DED infections. It is believed that the European elm bark beetle over-winters as larvae.

Recommended Steps to Control Elm Bark Beetles

If caught early enough, immediately apply the Multi-Insect Killer Tree Injection Kit treatment to the tree. This insecticide is injected directly into the tree’s vascular system and released quickly to help control insects already inside the vascular system.

To prevent repeated Elm bark beetles, as well as in areas of known Elm Bark beetle activity, a number of steps can be taken to prevent attacks in healthy trees. In the early spring, treating the tree with the Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit helps protect the tree’s vascular system. This treatment can be supplemented by regularly sprayingthe tree’s trunk with a good dosage of Borer-Miner Killer (every three to three weeks), thus creating a barrier to reduce further insect penetration through the bark.

The good news is that healthy, well-situated, well-maintained, and healthy trees are normally more resistant to the borer, so they’re less of a target. Trees under stress are more likely to be targets of the Elm Bark Beetle, so it is important to ensure that elm trees receive adequate water. To help ensure that a tree is healthy, apply a TreeHelp Annual Care Kit for Elm in the spring or early summer which contain the appropriate fertilizer and mycorrhizal treatment to support the proper functioning og the root system.

The elm leaf beetle (not to be confused with the elm bark beetle) is a pest which poses some danger to the elm tree. Adult beetles are approximately Ľ inch long. Their colour fades from yellow to olive as they mature. They have black stripes on their wing covers and four black spots on the thorax. The larvae are about 1/2 inch long and a dull yellow colour.

The adults lay eggs on the underside of elm leaves in late May and early June. After they hatch, the larvae begin feeding on the flesh of the leaf, leaving only the veins intact. About three weeks later, the adults emerge and chew small holes in the leaves.

A tree can survive an infestation of elm leaf beetles. However, its weakened state will make it more susceptible to other diseases such as Dutch elm disease.

Birds, toads, and other insects are natural enemies of the elm leaf beetle. There are also a number of effective pesticides.

Recommended Steps to Control Elm Leaf Beetles

To control Elm Leaf Beetles, use Borer-Miner Killer. Repeat the spray a few times, at intervals of about fourteen to eighteen days. If the trees are too tall to spray effectively, apply Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit.

Recommended Steps to Control the Emerald Ash Borer

If caught early enough, immediately apply Multi-Insect Killer Tree Injection Kit to the tree. This insecticide is injected directly into the tree’s vascular system and released quickly, to help control insects already inside the vascular system.

To prevent repeated Ash Borer attacks, and in areas of known Ash Borer activity, a number of steps can be taken to prevent attacks in healthy trees. In the early spring, treating the tree with Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit helps protect the tree’s vascular system. This treatment can be supplemented by regularly spraying the tree’s trunk with a good dose of Borer-Miner Killer (every three to three weeks), thus creating a barrier to reduce further insect penetration through the bark.

The good news is that healthy and well-maintained trees are normally more resistant to the Emerald Ash Borer, so they’re less of a target. Trees under stress are more likely to be borer targets, so it is important to ensure that Ash trees receive adequate water. To help ensure that a tree is healthy, apply a TreeHelp Annual Care Kit for Ash in the spring or early summer which contain the appropriate fertilizer.

Recommended Steps to Control Eucalyptus Long-horned Borers

If caught early enough, immediately apply Multi-Insect Killer Tree Injection Kit to the tree. This insecticide is injected directly into the tree’s vascular system and is released quickly to help kill insects already inside the vascular system.

To prevent Eucalyptus Long-horned borer attacks, in the areas where the insect is active, there are a number of steps that can be taken to reduce the chances of a harmful attack. In the early spring, treating the tree with Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit helps protect the tree’s vascular system. This treatment can be supplemented by regularly spraying the tree’s trunk with a good dosage of Borer-Miner Killer (every three to three weeks), thus creating a barrier to reduce further insect penetration through the bark.

The good news is that healthy and well-maintained trees are normally more resistant to the Eucalyptus Long-horned Borer, as well as less of a target. Trees under stress are more likely to be borer targets, so it is important to ensure that Eucalyptus trees receive adequate water. To help ensure that a tree is healthy, apply a TreeHelp Annual Care Kit for Eucalyptus in the spring or early summer which contain the appropriate fertilizer and mycorrhizal treatment to support the functioning of the root system.

Flea beetles are tiny black beetles about 1/16 of an inch in length. When disturbed the flea beetles jump from plant to plant. While sharing a similar name, flea beetles are not related to common pet fleas.

Flea beetles feed on a wide-range of plants including vegetables, berry plants, and small fruit trees. When attacked by flea beetles, leaves appear riddled with tiny holes about 1/8 of an inch in size. Flea beetles are most attracted to new seedlings and juvenile plants. The juvenile grubs eat plant roots and the adults eat plant foliage.

Recommended Steps to Control Flea Beetles

Spray plants with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray, when the leaves show the first signs of damage. Repeat the spray every seven days, until control is achieved. Monitor new foliage growth for signs of damage. In the fall, clean up and remove plant leaves and debris, to reduce the number of over-wintering locations for the adult beetles.

Fleas can infest many parts of the home and garden, including rooms, pets, pet beds, carpets, upholstered furniture, and outdoor garden areas.

Fleas have a wide range of hosts, including humans, cats, dogs, and most other warm-blooded animals. Females lay their eggs on the host’s body, shortly after feeding upon their blood. The eggs are dispersed as the host moves about and the eggs fall on furniture, carpets, in vehicles, and most other places the host travels. Within about ten days, the eggs hatch into tiny worm-like larvae, which begin to feed on dried blood and excrement. Pupation can start in as little as one week, but it can be delayed for several months. Once a larva goes into the pupation cycle, it can emerge as a mature flea in about ten days or remain in the pupation stage for up to one year, waiting for a new host to become available. The delayed pupation stage means that fleas can survive for very extended periods in abandoned buildings and then reinfest, once humans or animals return to the area.

Recommended Steps to Control Fleas

If fleas are identified, wash all clothing, bedding, and other fabrics in hot soapy water to remove fleas and eggs. Wash pets in approved flea soap. Treat all areas where pets are present with Diatomaceous Earth. Regularly vacuum carpeting, sofa, bedding, and furniture, and empty and dispose of the vacuum bag in a sealed plastic bag. To monitor for the early signs of fleas or to capture and reduce the numbers of fleas, use the BioCare Flea Trap in areas where pets or humans sleep or frequent. To control and eliminate fleas in the garden or around the foundation of buildings, spray with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray and repeat as needed.

A flour moth infestation can be identified by either the presence of the small flour moths (Indian Meal Moth, Mediterranean Moth, Almond Moth, or Raisin Moth) flying in or near areas where food is stored, or in the form of the small worm larvae in cereal and bread products. The larvae normally appear as small, brown or yellowish worms about one and a half inches in length. The larvae are attracted to damp or moldy grain products, but are also found in cereals, crackers, flour, and other products made from grain. The moths lay their eggs in cracks and crevices near food, such as shelving, cupboards, and pantries.

Recommended Steps to Control Flour and Pantry Moths

Dispose of any infested food and store all grain products in dry, tightly sealed plastic, glass, or metal containers. Clean all cupboards thoroughly. Treat cracks and crevices with Diatomaceous Earth to help control the spread of the larvae. Use the pheromone-based Aeroxon Pantry Moth Trap to capture flying moths before mating and for early detection of an infestation.

Leafrollers and leaftiers are small caterpillars that feed on leaves, which they roll around themselves for protection. Both leafrollers and leaftiers are very similar in their habits and feeding, except that leafrollers roll leaves around themselves and leaftiers tie leaves together with silk thread. The caterpillar uses the leaf for protection against the weather, predators, and chemical sprays. Leafrollers can cause significant damage to fruit trees, vegetables, and ornamental trees, because they defoliate the tree and thereby place immense stress on the tree. Some leafrollers will also feed on the flowers and fruit of fruit trees and, if not controlled early, can prevent fruit production.

Recommended Steps to Control Fruit Tree Leafrollers

Spray the tree with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray or Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad at the first signs of leafrollers or leaftiers. The sprays are much more effective if they are applied before the caterpillar is able to achieve protection inside the leaf. Repeat the spray, as needed, every seven to fourteen days.

There are many different types of fruit worms (larvae) that fall into the broad fruit worm category, including apple maggots, cherry fruit worms, etc.

The signs of fruit worms are often, malformed, shrunken, or shriveled fruit. Often, the fruit is rotten and pulpy and holes appear in the fruit.

Recommended Steps to Control Fruit Worms

It is impossible to control the worms during the current season's fruit, but they can be prevented or reduced over the year. In the spring, place Apple Maggot Traps out to capture the mature flies. The apple maggot trap and lure will attract and control many types of flies. The traps should be placed out early in the spring, about mid-April, as the flies lay their eggs in the new fruit, during the late spring and early summer period.

Also as soon as the flies appear, spray the area with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray or Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad. Repeat the process every seven days, or so. You can also reduce the spread of apple maggot larva by collecting and removing any fruit that falls to the ground.

In the early spring, the surfaces of tree leaves develop small spherical growths, called galls. The small special growths are often a light yellow, green, red, or brownish colour and are normally on the top surface of the leaves. Depending on the variety of gall, they can be created as an egg nest or by a toxin injected into a leaf.

Galls are identifiable by small round balls or bumps that grow on the leaves, twigs, and leaf stems of trees. They can also appear as a wide variety of abnormal growths, in a variety of shapes on leaves, twigs, or branches. Infected branches may be discoloured or distorted and drop leaves prematurely and, in some cases, the infected branches die.

In many cases, Galls are created by tiny mites that bite into the underside of the leaf and then inject the leaf with a growth-promoting substance that creates the spherical shaped growth. The circular ball, or gall, encloses the mite, and the female mites lay their eggs in the gall.

Recommended Steps to Control Galls

Once the gall is formed there is no way to eliminate the balls in the current growing season. However, to help control gall outbreaks, severely infected branches can be removed. Branches and leaves that fall to the ground should be collected and removed.

During the growing season, trees can be sprayed with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray or Take Down Garden Spray, to help reduce the mite population and prevent the tree being attacked by other insects that are drawn to weakened trees.

In the fall, the tree should be sprayed with Horticultural Oil Insect Spray, ensuring a good coating is applied to all the branches and the trunk. This prevents the over-wintering of mites and other insects on the bark.

The following spring, just before bud break and again after the leaves start to form, the tree should be sprayed again with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray, before the insects enter the leaves and begin to form the galls.

Grape Leafhoppers feed on grape vines and suck large amounts of sap out of leaves and new twig growth. As they suck the sap, they produce large amount of honeydew, which is a discharge of undigested sap sugars. The honeydew appears as a clear, shiny, sticky material on the leaves. As the Grape Leafhopper feeds on the leaves, it places significant stress on the vine, reducing the plant’s ability to produce fruit.

Recommended Steps to Control Grape Leafhoppers

Leafhoppers should be controlled as early as possible, before serious damage occurs. Spray the tree with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray and repeat every seven to fourteen days, as necessary.

Grasshoppers are large insects, often up to 2.5 inches in length, and they come in a variety of colours, including light green and brown. Their very large hind legs, designed for jumping, easily identify them. There are hundreds of varieties of grasshoppers. Most are not harmful to either trees or plants and, in most years, they cause no harm, so no steps are required to control them.

Occasionally, in optimum weather conditions, the grasshopper population can swell dramatically. As their numbers swell, they become less selective of their source of food and begin to consume the leaves on every tree and plant in their path, causing massive damage.

Recommended Steps to Control Grasshoppers

When dealing with only small numbers of grasshoppers, handpicking often eliminates the problem. To eliminate large infestations and minimize damage, control grasshoppers when they are in the juvenile stage by spraying the area with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray. Repeat the spraying every seven to ten days, as needed. More frequent sprayings may be required to control adult grasshoppers.

Green peach aphids are the most common aphid in North America and are present in almost every region. The yellowish-green aphid with tiny red eyes can often be seen on fruit trees, vegetables, and ornamental trees. In most areas, the Green Peach Aphid lays small black shiny eggs on peach, cherry, and other fruit trees. The eggs over-winter on the fruit tree and hatch in the following spring. Over the spring and summer, two or three generations of aphids can develop. As the aphids develop, they begin to migrate to other plants and trees to continue the feeding process. The Green Peach Aphids seldom damage their host fruit tree, but can be very harmful to other plants and trees, as they suck sap from them, as well as act as a carrier for plant diseases.

Recommended Steps to Control Green Peach Aphids

To prevent over-wintering on fruit trees, in the fall and early spring before the leaves form, spray the tree with Horticultural Oil Insect Spray. During the growing season and at the first sign of aphids, spray trees and plants with Take Down Garden Spray, which will help control both the adults and juveniles.

Thrips are tiny, almost microscopic, insects that are only about 1/16 of an inch in size. There are many different varieties of Thrips and they can range in color from brown to black to tan. Thrips can be serious pests for hundreds of different garden plants and trees. They cause their damage by ripping or scraping the surface of the leaf and then sucking sap from the leaves.

Recommended Steps to Control Thrips

When Thrips are identified, spray with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray. Repeat spraying every seven to ten days, until infestation is controlled.

Recommended Steps to Control Greenworm

At the first sign of greenworms on a tree, spray with Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad or Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray, and repeat the spray every two to three weeks until the feeding period has ended. In the fall, remove any visible egg nests or spray them with Horticultural Oil Insect Spray. In the spring, place a sticky TreeHelp Bug Band on the trunk of the tree to prevent the worms from migrating from the ground up towards the tree’s leaves.

In the early spring, use Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit to treat trees that are too tall to spray, to provide insect protection throughout the growing season.

Like the tale of the sorcerer’s apprentice, the gypsy moth (Lymantria dispar) is an example of an experiment gone horribly wrong. The moth was brought to the United States in 1869 in a failed attempt to start a silkworm industry. Escaping soon after, the gypsy moth has become, over the past century, a major pest in the northeastern United States and southeastern Canada.

Egg masses appear as 1.5 inch (4 cm) tan or buff-coloured hairs on tree trunks, outdoor furniture, or the sides buildings.

Gypsy moth caterpillars change appearance as they grow. Young caterpillars are black or brown, and about Ľ inch (.6 cm) in length. As they grow, bumps develop along their backs along with coarse, black hairs. Each of the eleven sections of a developed caterpillar will have two coloured spots, the first five pairs, blue, and the last six, red. Mature caterpillars can be as long as 2 ˝ inches (6.35 cm).

Gypsy moths are seen only in mid-summer. Males are grayish brown and can fly; females are larger, whitish with black marks, and cannot fly.

Tree damage is caused by the insect larvae, or caterpillars, which emerge from their eggs beginning in early spring and continuing through mid-May. The larvae move to the leaves of trees and begin to eat, mostly at night. During daylight hours, larvae generally seek shade from the sun but feeding can occur in daytime in heavy infestations. Gypsy moth larvae grow by moulting, five moults for males and six for females. Feeding occurs in the “instar” stage or period between each moult. As might be expected, a caterpillar’s appetite increases with each moult. Feeding continues until mid-June or early July, when the caterpillar enters the pupal stage emerging, finally, as a moth. Both male and female moths exist only to reproduce once; the male moths flying to find the females, who are too heavy to fly. The females lay their eggs from July to September, depending on location, then the moths of both sexes die.

Depending on the degree of infestation, tree damage ranges from light to almost complete defoliation. Most deciduous trees can survive a moderate degree of defoliation. Many can even survive one complete defoliation by the gypsy moth caterpillar. However, continuing attacks can fatally weaken a tree or leave it vulnerable to other insects or disease.

The gypsy moth caterpillar is not a fussy eater. It has a preference for the leaves of deciduous hardwood trees such as maple, elm, and particularly oak. Gypsy moths can also feed on apple, alder, birch, poplar, and willow trees. As it grows, it will also attack evergreens, like pines and spruces. Gypsy moths appear to dislike ashes, sycamores, butternuts, black walnuts, dogwoods, and balsams. However, during heavy infestations, competition for food will drive the caterpillar to attack almost any tree or shrub.

Recommended Steps to Control Gypsy Moth

Prevention

The gypsy moth can be combated at the egg and larval (caterpillar) stages. Egg masses, when discovered, should be burned or soaked in water or kerosene. If the egg masses are unreachable, spray them with a strong dose of Horticultural Oil Insect Spray. Spray in the late fall as well as a few times in the early spring, before leaves begin to form on trees. To prevent the caterpillars from reaching the foliage, use a TreeHelp Bug Band. You should use a TreeHelp Bug Band to protect nearby trees as well.

Control

Use Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad and Gypsy Moth Trap to control both the caterpillars and the moths. At the first sign of the caterpillars, spray the tree with the Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad and repeat the spraying every two to three weeks. At the same time, place Gypsy Moth Trap around your property, to capture the adult moths before they begin to reproduce.

If the trees are too tall to spray, in the spring treat potentially impacted trees with the Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit to provide protection against the larva and other insects through te full growing season.

Social wasps and hornets get their name form the fact that they live collectively in colonies, which can range in size from a few hundred to thousands of hornets per colony. The more common social hornets are yellowjackets, hornets, and paper wasps. These insects all live in paper nests they build and then abandon at the end of the season. The old colonies are seldom re-used, but a new colony will often develop in a similar area. Over the winter most of the colony dies, except for the recently impregnated females (queens) who live until the next spring and establish new colonies. The new colonies gradually grow over the spring and summer and reach their maximum size by late summer.

Normally, social wasps and hornets feed on other insects, as well as sweet substances like nectar and honeydew.

Recommended Steps to Control Wasps and Hornets

Keep food and garbage covered, so as to eliminate attractants for wasps and hornets. Use the Waspinator to keep wasps, bees, and yellowjackets away from eating area. Capture the insects by placing an Oak Stump Yellowjacket Trap away from eating and activity areas, to draw them away from human contact.

Recommended Steps to Control Hornworms

At the first sign of hornworms, spray with Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad or Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray and repeat the spray every two to three weeks, until their feeding period has ended.

A Indian Meal Moth infestation can be identified by the presence of small flour moths flying in or near areas where food is stored, or small worm larvae in cereal and bread products. The larvae normally appear as small brown or yellowish worms about one and a half inches in length. The larvae are attracted to damp or moldy grain products, but are also found in cereals, crackers, flour, and other products made from grain. The moths lay their eggs in cracks and crevices near food, such as shelving, cupboards, and pantries.

Recommended Steps to Control Indian Meal Moths

Dispose of any infested food and store all grain products in dry, tightly sealed plastic, glass, or metal containers. Clean all cupboards thoroughly. Treat cracks and crevices with Diatomaceous Earth to help control the spread of the larva. Use the pheromone-based Aeroxon Pantry Moth Trap to capture flying moths before mating and for early detection of an infestation.

The Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica Newman) is a highly destructive plant pest that can be very difficult to control. Feeding on grass roots, Japanese beetle grubs damage lawns, golf courses, and pastures. Japanese beetle adults attack the foliage, flowers, or fruits of more than 300 different types of trees and plants.

Adult Japanese beetles feed on broad-leaved trees and plants and can cause significant damage as they defoliate the plants. The grubs will also feed on a wide variety of plant roots, including ornamental trees and shrubs, garden and truck crops, and turf grasses. They seem to prefer Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescues, and bentgrass.

Symptoms of Damage

Adult Japanese beetles are skeletonizers. This means that they eat the leaf tissue between the leaf veins, but leave the veins behind. Attacked leaves have a lacey appearance, and soon wither and die. Adult beetles will often attack flower buds and fruit. The grubs can kill small seedling plants but most commonly damage turf. The turf first appears off-color, as if under water stress. Watering may help temporarily, but more often it will have no effect. The turf feels spongy under foot and can be easily pulled back like old carpet to reveal the grubs. Large populations of grubs kill the turf in irregular patches.

Life Stages of the Japanese Beetle and white grubs

• Eggs: The white oval eggs are usually about 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) long and 3/64 inch (1.0 mm) wide. They are placed in the soil, where they absorb moisture and become more roundish.
  
• Larvae: The larvae are typical white grubs that can be separated from other soil-dwelling white grubs by the presence of a V-shaped series of bristles. Juvenile larvae are about 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) long and grow to a length of about 1-1/4 inch (32 mm).
  
• Pupae: The pupae are first cream colored and become light reddish-brown with age. The average pupa is about 1/2 inch (14 mm) long and 1/4 inch (7 mm) wide.
  
• Adults: The adults are a brilliant, metallic green color, generally oval in outline, 3/8 inch (10 mm) long, and 1/4 inch (7 mm) wide. The wing covers are copper-brown and the abdomen has a row of five tufts of white hairs on each side.
  

Larvae that have matured by June pupate and the adult beetles emerge from the last week of June through July. The first beetles out of the ground seek out suitable food plants and begin to feed as soon as possible. Newly emerged females release an additional sex pheromone to attract males. The first mating usually takes place on turf with several male suitors awaiting the emergence of a new female. Mating also is common on the food plants and several matings by both males and females is common. After feeding for a day or two, the females leave feeding sites in the afternoon and burrow into the soil to lay eggs at a depth of two to four inches. Females may lay one to five eggs, scattered in an area, before leaving the soil. These females will leave the following morning, or a day or two later, and will return to feed and mate. This cycle of feeding, mating, and egg laying continues until the female has laid 40 to 60 eggs. About 95% of a population are generally laid by mid-August, although adults may be found until the first frost of fall.

If the soil is sufficiently moist, eggs will swell in a few days. The first instar larvae dig to the soil surface, where they feed on roots and organic material, taking typically 17-30 days to mature.  While this development is occurring, grubs may tunnel laterally in search of organic matter and fresh roots. This creates a very spongy feel to the soil and turf. The grubs burrow four to eight inches into the soil as cold temperatures arrive. At this depth, the soil rarely gets below 25 degrees F and the grubs survive with no difficulty. If the soil begins to cool further, the grubs may dig deeper. The grubs return to the surface in the spring, as the soil temperature warms. Generally, the grubs can be expected to be active at the surface when the surface soil temperatures are about 60 degrees F, usually in mid-April.

Recommended Steps to Control Japanese Beetles

Use Safer's Japanese Beetle Traps to identify the early emergence of the beetles and to reduce the number of beetles. At the first sign of the beetles, spray the area with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray. The timing of the initial spraying is important, because females lay the majority of their eggs within the first seven to ten days of their lives. Continue spraying with Bug Buster every seven to fourteen days, to reduce further adult feeding.

When a tree is being attacked by lace bugs, the upper surface of the leaves appears speckled white and green. The mottling can be mistaken for damage caused by mites or leafhoppers. The presence of lace bugs can be distinguished from other insects by the shiny, hard, brown droplets found on the undersides of damaged leaves. The lace bug is a small insect, about 1/8 inch in size, brown in colour, with lacy wings.

The lace bug can often be found in large numbers on the undersides leaves and they are very fond of oak trees. They suck sap from the leaves, causing the leaves to lose their green color and, in doing so, substantially reduces the tree’s ability to produce food.

The adults over-winter in the bark crevices and, in the spring, emerge to attach their eggs to the underside of leaves, using a brown sticky substance. When the eggs hatch, the juveniles emerge and begin sucking sap from the leaves until late summer.

Recommended Steps to Control Lace Bugs

After leaf drop in the late fall and in early spring, spray the tree’s trunk and branches with Horticultural Oil Insect Spray to kill the bugs that are over-wintering on the bark. In the spring, at the first sign of the lace bugs, spray the tree with Take Down Garden Spray to kill the adults and prevent the eggs hatching. Spray Take Down throughout the season, as needed.

If the tree is too tall to spray, in the early spring apply Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit, to provide insect protection for the full growing season.

There are several different types of leaf beetles. including the common Elm Leaf Beetle. Leaf beetles are often small beetles, about ˝ inch long or less, and are generally found on the underside of leaves. The beetles eat the leaf tissue between the veins, giving the leaves a threaded, lacy appearance. The beetles, as they consumer more and more of the leaves, place significant stress on the tree. In the fall, the beetles can also become a nuisance in homes, as they seek shelter for over-wintering.

Recommended Steps to Control Leaf Beetles

At the first sign of leaf beetles, spray with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray. Repeat the spraying every seven to fourteen days as necessary. In areas of repeated annual leaf beetle infestations, be sure to spray with Bug Buster as soon as the leaves grow to full size in the spring.

If the tree is too tall to spray, treat it with Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit.

In the early spring, the surfaces of the tree leaves develop small spherical growths called galls. The small special growths are often a light yellow, green, red, or brownish colour and are normally on the top surface of the leaves. Depending on the variety of gall, they can be created as a egg nest or be the result of a toxin injected into the leaf.

Leaf galls are identifiable by small round balls or bumps that grow on the leaves, twigs, and leaf stems of trees. They can also appear as a wide variety of abnormal growth in a variety of shapes on the leaves, twigs, or branches. Infected branches may be discoloured or distorted and drop prematurely. In some cases, the infected branches die.

In many cases, Galls are created by tiny mites or other insects that bite into the underside of the leaf and then inject the leaf with a growth promoting substance that creates the spherical shaped growth. The circular ball or gall encloses the mite and the female mites lay their eggs in the gall.

Recommended Steps to Control Galls

Once the gall is formed, there is no way to eliminate the balls in the current growing season, however, to help control gall outbreaks, severely infected branches can be removed. Branches and leaves that fall to the ground should be collected and removed.

During the growing season, the tree can be sprayed with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray or Take Down Garden Spray to help reduce the mite population and to prevent the tree being attacked by other insects drawn to weakened trees.

Leafrollers and leaftiers are small caterpillars that feed on leaves which they roll around themselves for protection. Both leafrollers and leaftiers are very similar in their habits and feeding, except that leafrollers roll leaves around themselves and leaftiers tie leaves together with silk thread. The caterpillar uses the leaf for protection against the weather, predictors, and chemical sprays. Leafrollers can cause significant damage in the garden to fruit trees, ornamental trees, and vegetable, because they defoliate the tree, which puts immense stress on the tree. Some leafrollers will also feed on the flowers and fruit of fruit trees and, if not controlled early, they can prevent fruit production.

Recommended Steps to Control Fruit Tree Leafrollers

At the first signs of leafrollers or leaftiers, spray the tree with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray or Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad. The sprays are much more effective if they are applied before the caterpillar is able to achieve protection inside the leaf. Repeat the spray, as needed, every seven to fourteen days.

For trees that are too tall to spray, and in cases of large leafroller outbreaks, apply the Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit, early in the growing season.

There are many types of leafhoppers that attack a wide-range of trees and plants. Most leafhoppers are narrow and only about half an inch long. They move very quickly, hopping or flying when disturbed. When on the leaf, the leafhopper can move in any direction, moving sideways and backwards almost as fast as their forward motion. Leafhoppers can easily be identified by the large eyes on the sides of their heads.

Leafhoppers feed on a wide-range of trees and plants, by sucking large amounts of sap out of leaves and new twig growth. As they suck the sap, they produce large amount of honeydew, which is a discharge of undigested sap sugars. The honeydew appears as a clear, shiny, sticky material on the leaves.

Leaves that are severely damaged by leafhoppers are unsightly and the tree loses its ability to produce food.

Recommended Steps to Control Leafhoppers

Leafhoppers should be controlled as early as possible, before serious damage occurs. Spray the tree with Borer-Miner Killer and repeat spray every seven to fourteen days, as necessary.

If the tree is too tall to spray, treat it with Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit as early in the season as possible.

Leafminers are insect larvae that feed inside a leaf, between the upper and lower surfaces. They may be the larvae of flies, moths, sawflies, or beetles. Various types of leafminers attack a wide-range of trees and plants, including, birch, boxwood, cypress, magnolia, oak, and many other types of trees. In order to live and eat within the small confines of a leaf, most leafminers are small flatworm-like insects. As the leafminer feeds on the interior of the leaf, the leaves become blistered and blotchy, and the outlines of tunnels can often be seen. As the infestations increases, the leaves yellow, brown, and die. Often, as the leafminers mature, they begin to consumer larger and larger parts of the leaf.

Recommended Steps to Control Leafminers

The most effective way to control leafminers is to apply Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit early in spring. This will provide protection against leafminors and most other insects during the full growing season, and will kill the juvenile miners inside the leaves.

Since leafminers are protected inside the leaf for most of their lives, sprays have only limited effectiveness. Borer-Miner Killer can be applied as soon as the juveniles or adults emerge from the leaves. The effectiveness of the Borer Miner Killer Spray is increased when it is used with Nature's Own Spray Helper, which helps increase the degree of penetration into the leaf.

Recommended Steps to Control Leafworms

At the first sign of leafworms on a tree, spray it with Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad or Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray, and repeat the spray every two to three weeks, until the feeding period has ended. In the fall, remove any visible egg nests or spray them with Horticultural Oil. In the spring, place a sticky TreeHelp Bug Band on the trunk of the tree, to prevent the worms from migrating from the ground up towards the tree’s leaves.

In the early spring, treat trees that are too tall to spray with Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit, to provide insect protection throughout the growing season.

The Lecanium Scale insect is common on many types of trees and is prevalent on fruit trees. The appearance of Lecanium scale is dark crusty bumps, thick, white waxy bumps, or clusters of scaly bumps on stems and the undersides of leaves. The bumps can often be scraped off with a dull knife, and the underside of the bumps is normally a softer material. When a tree is infected with Lecanium scale, it is very common to see a shiny, sticky substance on the leaves. This material is called honeydew and is an undigested sugar substance that is secreted by the scale insect. In certain climates, the honeydew becomes a prime-growing medium for black, sooty mold.

Lecanium scale lay their eggs on the woody material of the tree. In the spring to mid-summer, the juvenile nymphs emerge and begin sucking sap from the plant. Shortly afterwards, the nymphs permanently affix themselves to the tree and form a crusty or waxy protective shell over their bodies. During the lifecycle of scale insects, their only movement is during their nymph period.

Scale damages trees by sucking sap from the trees vascular system, denying the tree vital nutrients. If uncontrolled, a major infestation can kill a tree in two to three seasons.

Recommended Steps to Control Lecanium Scale

To control scale insects effectively and limit damage, Horticultural Oil Insect Spray should be sprayed on the tree in late winter and again before spring bud break. The Horticultural oil serves to suffocate the scale and eggs. In the spring, if the crawling nymphs are present, spray the trees with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray to prevent the new nymphs from further infecting the tree.

Locusts are large dark-bodied insects that are up to one and a half inches long, with transparent wings. The presence of Locusts is often identified by the loud, strong sounds made by the male cicadas. Damage is done by the Locust in three ways 1) adults chew into and suck sap from young twigs; 2) the juvenile cicadas live on or in the soil and chew and suck sap from a tree’s roots, thus placing significant stress on the tree; and 3) the most damaging is when the females burrow into branches to lay eggs. When laying eggs, the female Locust will make dozens of holes into the tree to lay the eggs, with each of the dozens or even hundreds of holes disrupting the tree’s vascular system. In some cases, they make so many holes that the branch will break.

Recommended Steps to Control Locusts

At the first sign of the male singing, spray the tree with Borer-Miner Killer spray. Repeat the spray after seven days and continue as necessary. Cutoff and destroy any branches that are severely infested with egg holes.

There are several different types of long-horned beetles, including the Asian Long-Horned Beetle. These beetles are all very harmful to a tree and often cause death, if not treated properly as soon as possible.

Long-horned beetles, like all types of burrowing insects, are extremely destructive because, as the beetle larvae burrow deep within a tree to feed, they disrupt the tree’s vascular system. Continued feeding causes structural defects and eventually kills the life-sustaining cambial layer by girdling (strangling the tree). Mature beetles then burrow out of the tree, leaving holes the diameter of ball-point pens. Active Long-horned Beetle infestations, if left untreated, can quickly kill otherwise healthy adult trees.

Mature beetles emerge from trees in late May and through October, peaking in July. Tree infestations can be detected by looking for tell-tale exit holes 3/8 to ľ inches in diameter (1.5-2 cm). They are often in the larger branches of the crowns of infested trees. Sometimes sap can be seen oozing from the exit holes, with coarse sawdust or ‘frass’ in evidence on the ground or lower branches.

Recommended Steps to Help Control Long-horned Beetles

If a tree has been attacked by Long-horned Beetles, immediately apply the Multi-Insect Killer Tree Injection Kit directly into the tree’s vascular system. To help provide protection throughout the growing season to trees that are located in an area of Long-horned Beetle outbreaks, apply Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit early in the spring.

Boring insects are less likely to attack strong, healthy trees, so a proper fertilizing and watering program using the TreeHelp Annual Care Kit is recommended, to ensure trees are strong and healthy and to help trees that have been attacked repair damage done by the boring insect.

Mealybugs are soft-bodied insects that are very closely related to scale insects. Plants that are infested with mealybugs often give the appearance of a plant covered with cotton, which is actually a white waxy protective covering on the mealybug. Mealybugs damage trees and plants by sucking sap, thus causing yellowing, stunted growth, galls, and dieback. As the mealybugs suck the sap, they excrete large amounts of honeydew, which is an undigested sugar. Often, other insects such as ants or wasps are drawn to the honeydew.

Mealybugs are generally found outdoors in warmer climates, and on indoor houseplants in colder climates.

Recommended Steps to Control Mealybugs

At the first sign of mealy bugs, spray the infected tree or plant with Safer's End-All II Miticide & Insecticide. Repeat the spraying every seven to fourteen days, until control is achieved. For trees that are too tall to spray, treat with Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit.

Millipedes often appear as small worms or caterpillars with thousands of legs, thereby earning them the nickname of thousand-legged worms. Millipedes can vary in length from about an inch to several inches long. A characteristic that can be used to identify millipedes easily is the curling or coiling shape they assume when they are touched or picked up. Millipedes are normally found in damp, cool, dark places, such as under rocks. In most situations, millipedes feed only on decaying matter, but, when they become very numerous and food sources are in short supply, they will begin to feed on small roots and seedlings. In large numbers, millipedes may need to be controlled to protect plants.

Recommended Steps to Control Millipedes

Millipedes only need to be controlled when large numbers of them become prevalent and they begin eating living seedling or plant roots. If this occurs, treat the area with Diatomaceous Earth and repeat as necessary, or spray the area with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray and repeat as necessary.

Mites are an extremely tiny pest, and generally appear as a brown, red, or purple specks on the underside of leaves. Mites infest leaves and cause the leaves to appear speckled with yellow spots, or wilted and curled. A fine silken webbing can sometimes be seen on the underside of leaves. Intense infestations during hot, dry weather can cause leaf drop.

To confirm if the tree has a spider mite infestation, take a close look at the undersides of the leaves for small insects, the size of ground pepper. You may need to use a small magnifying glass to adequately see the spider mites. Another way to examine for spider mites is to take a sheet of white paper and hold it under a group of leaves and give the leaves a few sharp taps to shake some of the spider mites loose. On the white paper the spider mites can be easily seen.

Mites damage the tree by sucking sap from the underside of the leaves. The bite marks appear as the yellow speckled pattern on the top and bottom of the leaf. As the season progresses and the temperature becomes hotter and dryer (above 70 degrees F), the population of spider mites will increase exponentially and can rapidly defoliate a tree, especially if the tree is having trouble taking up water during drought periods. Often a tree being attacked by spider mites appears to be dripping because as insects suck the sap from the leaves, they produce a liquid honeydew, which is the undigested sugars. The honeydew gives the leaves a sticky feel and a wet look.

Recommended Steps to Control Mites

To control mites and other sucking insects spray the tree with Take Down Garden Spray or Safer's Trounce Yard & Garden Insecticide. Be sure to spray the underside of the leaves and repeat the spraying every seven to fourteen days, as necessary.

Mosquitoes are a common problem in many gardens and homes, especially at dusk and during the night. There are many different varieties of mosquitoes, each variety being active in different parts of the world. In addition to their annoying bite, mosquitoes can also transmit serious diseases to humans, animals, and birds.

As the weather warms up in the spring, the adults emerge from their winter hibernation and begin their feeding process. Male mosquitoes feed on plant sap and honeydew, while the females feed on blood, which they require for egg production. The eggs are laid in shallow, still water and can mature in as little as five days or take months to mature, depending on the conditions.

Recommended Steps to Control Mosquitoes

Reduce or eliminate any areas of standing or stagnant water. Use the Oak Stump Mosquito Trapwith pheromones to prevent new egg hatching and reduce the mosquito population.

A scale insect problem can be seen on trees in the form of small brown bumps, which look like small oyster shells attached to the branches and trunk of the tree. Over time, the scale ‘shells’ will reproduce and spread over large areas of the tree’s woody branches. The scale gradually attacks the tree by sucking sap and nutrients from the tree and, over time, heavily infected areas will experience die-back.

Since scale insects do not move and have no eyes or legs, they are often overlooked as an insect or pathogen. In the spring, small, almost invisible nymphs emerge from under the female shells and move to infect new areas of the tree. This is the only time in the life-cycle of scale that the insect moves.

Recommended Steps to Control Oystershell Scale

To control scale insects effectively and to limit damage, Horticultural Oil Insect Spray should be sprayed on the tree in late winter and again before spring bud break begins. The Horticultural oil serves to suffocate the scale and eggs. In the spring, if the crawling nymphs are present, spray the trees with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray to prevent the new nymphs from further infecting the tree.

A pantry moth infestation can be identified by either the presence of the small flour moths (Indian Meal Moth, Mediterranean Moth, Almond Moth, or Raisin Moth) flying in or near areas where food is stored, or in the form of the small worm larvae in cereal and bread products. The larvae normally appear as small, brown or yellowish worms about one and a half inches in length. The larvae are attracted to damp or moldy grain products, but are also found in cereals, crackers, flour, and other products made from grain. The moths lay their eggs in cracks and crevices near food, such as shelving, cupboards, and pantries.

Recommended Steps to Control Flour and Pantry Moths

Dispose of any infested food and store all grain products in dry, tightly sealed plastic, glass, or metal containers. Clean all cupboards thoroughly. Treat cracks and crevices with Diatomaceous Earth to help control the spread of the larvae. Use the pheromone-based Aeroxon Pantry Moth Trap to capture flying moths before mating and for early detection of an infestation.

Pecan weevil can be very harmful to pecan and hickory trees, both weakening the trees and destroying the nuts. The presence of pecan weevils can be seen in a few identifiable symptom including: 1) during the mid summer, immature pecans drop to the ground and are marked with dark patches and stains; 2) late season mature nuts have small holes in them about 1/8 of an inch in size; and 3) when nuts are cut open, the kernels are often destroyed and small white worms can be seen inside.

Both the adult and juvenile pecan weevils are damaging to pecans. Adult weevils emerge from the soil in late summer and feed on immature pecan nuts, causing the under-developed pecan to drop mid-season. As the shells on the pecan nuts harden, the female weevils drill into them to lay eggs inside the nut. When the eggs hatch, the grubs feed on the kernel of the nut for a few weeks. Then, they leave the nut, drop to the ground, and burrow into the soil. The grubs then emerge as adults after two to three seasons and begin the feeding process again.

Recommended Steps to Control Pecan Weevils

Because the grubs remain in the soil for two to three years, to be successful a control program needs to be undertaken several years in a row. In the spring, spray infected trees with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray to help control adult feeding. Repeat spray every seven to fourteen days. When the shells begin to harden, spray every seven days with Bug Buster, until the shucks split from the shells. The weevils can also be controlled, in part, by shaking the tree and killing the weevils after they fall to the ground. To do this, place sheets or a tarp under the tree and give the tree and the branches a gentle shake, to dislodge the weevils. Repeat this process every three to five days until the weevil population declines.

The pecan phylloxera is an insect related to Aphids. It causes galls on pecan and hickory trees. The galls initially appear as yellowish-green swellings on the leaves, shoots, and nuts. The greenish galls which average 1/8 to one inch in size; weaken the leaves and branches that they are on to the point that the branch die-back may occur.

Phylloxera eggs are laid in the fall and they over-winter on tree branches. In the spring, juveniles emerge from the eggs and begin feeding on the new, tender foliage. As the females feed, they inject a toxin into the plant tissue, causing the gall to develop. Quickly, the gall grows and envelops the feeding insect, at which time the insect lays the next generation of eggs, which emerge from the galls as winged insects in late May and early June. The most damaging period for pecan and hickory trees is when the first generation feeds on new tender growth.

Recommended Steps to Control Phylloxera

Once the gall is formed, there is no way to eliminate the balls or control the insect inside it. Branches and leaves that fall to the ground should be collected and removed.

During the growing season, at the first sign of the first-generation of Phylloxera, spray the tree with Take Down Garden Spray, to help prevent feeding and laying of the second generation of eggs.

In the fall, the tree should be sprayed with Horticultural Oil Insect Spray, ensuring a good coating is applied to all the branches and the trunk. This prevents the over-wintering of the eggs and other insects on the bark.

The following spring, before bud break, repeat spraying with Horticultural Oil. As the leaves start to form, the tree should be sprayed again with Take Down Garden Spray, before the insects feed on and enter the leaves to begin forming the galls.

Pillbugs and sowbugs are small insects about half an inch long, with dark gray or brown hard segmented bodies, and small legs. They are crustaceans and distant relatives of lobsters. Sowbugs and pillbugs feed at night and seek refuge during the day in dark, damp locations, such as under pots. Under normal conditions, they are not harmful to plants because they normally feed on decaying matter. When their population expands significantly, sowbugs and pillbugs will start to feed on roots and low hanging foliage of garden plants and seedlings. They can also invade homes through cracks in the foundation or open windows to become a nuisance in the house.

Recommended Steps to Control Pillbugs and Sowbugs

When plants are attacked by sowbugs or pillbugs, scatter Safer's Ready-to-Use Slug & Snail Bait around the plant and create a two- to three-foot band around the plant. To control them indoors, treat the invaded area with Diatomaceous Earth. To prevent sowbugs and pillbugs entering the home, spray the perimeter of the house and its foundations with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray, and repeat as necessary.

Psyllids are small insects related to aphids. They are small winged insects that are often green or brown in color and about 1/6 of an inch long. They are very quick moving and can jump quickly from a leaf, into flight. They have been referred to as jumping plant lice.

When in small numbers, they do little damage to a tree. Under favorable conditions, however, the Psyllid population can grow very rapidly and cause serious damage to birch trees during the growing season. The Psyllids, like aphids, attack the tree by sucking the sap out of leaves. The symptoms are very visible on the leaves in the form of multiple pucker marks, yellowing, and the twisting of leaves, giving the appearance of deformed leaves. As the severity of the aphid infestation increases, leaf drop and die-back of twigs and branches can be seen.

During an psyllid infestation, leaves often appear to be shiny and dripping sap. This sap is called honeydew and is an excretion of undigested sugars from the psyllids. It often drips onto other leaves, other plants, and onto the ground. The honeydew then becomes an attractant to ants, which feed on it. In most cases, the ants are only symptoms of the honeydew and are not actually attacking or hurting the birch tree.

Recommended way to control Psyllids

For major outbreaks spray the tree with either Take Down Garden Spray or Borer-Miner Killer. The spray should be directed at the top and undersides of the leaves and other areas of visible feeding, in addition to insect concentrations. Normally, only one or two spray treatments are required to achieve control. For trees that are too tall to spray, use Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit.

Recommended Steps to Control Purple Scale

To control scale insects effectively and to limit damage, Horticultural Oil Insect Spray should be sprayed on the tree. The Horticultural oil serves to suffocate the scale and eggs. In the spring or early summer, if the crawling nymphs are present, spray the trees with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray, to prevent the new nymphs from further infecting the tree.

Recommended Steps to Control Red Scale

To control scale insects effectively and to limit damage, Horticultural Oil Insect Spray should be sprayed on the tree. The Horticultural oil serves to suffocate the scale and eggs. In the spring or early summer, if the crawling nymphs are present, spray the trees with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray, to prevent the new nymphs from further infecting the tree.

Recommended Steps to Control Redhumped Caterpillars

At the first sign of caterpillars on a tree, spray with Garden Insect Spray with Spinosad or Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray, and repeat the spray every two to three weeks until the feeding period has ended. In the fall, remove any visible egg nests or spray them with Horticultural Oil Insect Spray. In the spring, place a sticky TreeHelp Bug Band on the trunk of the tree to prevent the caterpillars from migrating from the ground up towards the tree’s leaves.

In the early spring, treat trees that are too tall to spray with Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit, to provide insect protection throughout the growing season.

The Royal Palm Bug is an unusual insect. It feeds on only one plant, the royal palm, and the female lays one egg a day during the spring, The bugs rarely kill the host tree but the damage they do can be unsightly and they are difficult to control, given the height of mature royal palms. The royal palm bug is completely dependent on the royal palm for food and shelter. Eggs are laid in the spring, inside the folds of new palm leaflets, which serve to protect the eggs until they hatch. Eggs hatch after eight or nine days, and the insects reach adulthood in about a month, about the same time that it takes a royal palm to produce a new leaf.

After hatching, the bugs begin to feed on the new leaf, producing yellow spots on the lower leaf surface. Large numbers of bugs feeding on one leaf can cause it to develop brownish streaks, wilt, and finally turn gray.

The adult royal palm bugs themselves are very small, only about one tenth of an inch (2.5mm) long. Adults have red eyes, are light yellow in color, and have wings. Young bugs are identical in appearance except that they lack wings.

Recommended Steps to Control Royal Palm Bugs

At first sign of the Royal Palm Bug, apply the Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit.

Sawflies are part of the bee and wasp family of insects, and the only one that feeds on plant tissue. Normally, in both the juvenile and adult stages, sawflies consume all of the soft tissue in the leaf, leaving just the larger leaf veins. For deciduous trees, this places a significant stress on the tree. For conifers (evergreens), repeated defoliation by a sawfly can often cause the tree to die within a few years.

Recommended Steps to Control Sawflies

At first sign of the sawfly, spray the tree or plant with Borer-Miner Killer and repeat the spray every seven days until the infestation is controlled. When spraying is not possible, apply the Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit.

Juvenile sawfly larvae can appear in several different forms, depending on the variety. Often, they will look like small slug or worm. They feed on the soft tissue of leaves and on evergreens, consumeing the new needles. In a few cases, the sawfly larvae act as leafminers, living and eating within the leaf, never emerging outside of the leaf. The leafminer version is more difficult to control than the exposed juveniles, because being inside the leaf protects them.

Recommended Steps to Control Sawfly Larva

At the first sign of the sawfly, spray the tree or plant with Borer-Miner Killer and repeat the spray every seven days until the infestation is controlled. When spraying is not possible, or when the juvenile sawfly is a leafminer, apply Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit.

Scale insects are small, non-mobile insects that attach themselves to the wood, foliage, and, sometimes, the fruit of trees. Scale is most common on new, tender, woody growth. When adult scale is attached to the tree, it often appears as crusty or waxy bumps on the tree and is often mistaken for part of the tree’s own growth, but it is actually an insect. The scale sucks sap from the tree and causes leaves to turn yellow and drop. Often, a sticky substance can be found near the scale or on leaves. This is a secretion from the scale called honeydew and it often acts as an attractant for ants or as a growth source for sooty mold.

In the spring or mid-summer, small, almost invisible nymphs emerge from under the female shells and move to infect new areas of the tree. This is the only time in the life cycle of scale that the insects move.

Recommended Steps to Control Scale Insects

To control scale insects effectively and to limit damage, Horticultural Oil Insect Spray should be sprayed on the tree. The Horticultural oil serves to suffocate the scale and eggs. In the spring or early summer, if the crawling nymphs are present, spray the trees with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray to prevent the new nymphs from further infecting the tree.

Silverfish are small slender, wingless insects, about half an inch long, with long antennae projecting form their small heads.Silverfish are very common home and garden insects and are often found in damp, moderately warm locations, such as basements, near water pipes, and openings between walls. They are active at night and feed on a wide range of foods, including newspapers, books (especially the glue in bookbinding), human food, linens, and most other fabrics. The adult lays her eggs in protected cracks and openings, often under or behind baseboards and near pipe openings.

Recommended Steps to Control Silverfish

Dust indoor areas frequented by silverfish with Diatomaceous Earth, especially cracks and openings around baseboards. To control silverfish in the garden, spray with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray and repeat as necessary.

Slugs and snail are very similar to each other, except snails have a hard outer shell, which is not present on slugs. Both require damp, moist conditions in which to survive and, when adequate moisture is not present, they go into a hibernation stage, re-emerging once the level of moisture has increased. Slugs and snails are most problematic in damp, moister locations, where the population can grow quite large. Slugs and snails feed on plant foliage and place significant stress on plants by consuming plant tissue. Clear telltale signs that slugs and snails are present are feeding marks on lower-hanging foliage and shiny slime trains on rock and plants. The trails are a mucus secreted by the slugs and snails, and upon which they glide on as part of their movement.

Recommend Steps to Control Slugs and Snails

To control slugs and snails, scatter Safer's Ready-to-Use Slug & Snail Bait in the area. To protect specific plants, apply two circles of the product around the plant, about twelve inches from its base. When applying it, wet the area where it will be applied. The moisture helps encourage slug and snail feeding that evening and increases the effectiveness of the bait. For continuing control, use Oak Stump Slug & Snail Trapsduring the entire growing season.

Slugs and snail are very similar to each other, except snails have a hard outer shell, which is not present on slugs. Both require damp, moist conditions in which to survive and, when adequate moisture is not present, they go into a hibernation stage, re-emerging once the level of moisture has increased. Slugs and snails are most problematic in damp, moister locations, where the population can grow quite large. Slugs and snails feed on plant foliage and place significant stress on plants by consuming plant tissue. Clear telltale signs that slugs and snails are present are feeding marks on lower-hanging foliage and shiny slime trains on rock and plants. The trails are a mucus secreted by the slugs and snails, and upon which they glide on as part of their movement.

Recommend Steps to Control Slugs and Snails

To control slugs and snails, scatter Safer's Ready-to-Use Slug & Snail Bait in the area. To protect specific plants, apply two circles of the product around the plant, about twelve inches from its base. When applying it, wet the area where it will be applied. The moisture helps encourage slug and snail feeding that evening and increases the effectiveness of the bait. For continuing control, use Oak Stump Slug & Snail Trapsduring the entire growing season.

Spider mites are an extremely small pest, and generally appear as a brown, red, or purple specks on the underside of leaves. Mites infest leaves and cause the leaves to appear speckled with yellow spots or wilted and curled. A fine silken webbing can sometimes be seen on the underside of the leaves. Intense infestations during hot, dry weather can cause leaf drop.

To confirm if the tree has a spider mite infestation, closely inspect the undersides of leaves for small insects, the size of ground pepper. You may need to use a small magnifying glass to see the spider mites adequately. Another way to examine for spider mites is to take a sheet of white paper and hold it under a group of leaves and give the leaves a few sharp taps, to shake some of the spider mites loose. On the white paper the spider mites can be seen easily.

Spider mites damage trees by sucking sap from the underside of the leaves. The bite marks appear as a yellow speckled pattern on the top and bottom of the leaf. As the season progresses and the temperature becomes hotter and dryer (above 70 degrees F), the population of spider mites will increase exponentially and can rapidly defoliate a tree, especially if the tree is having trouble taking up water during drought periods. Often, a tree being attacked by spider mites appears to be dripping, because as insects suck the sap from the leaves, they produce a liquid honeydew, which is the undigested sugars. The honeydew gives the leaves a sticky feel and a wet look.

Recommended Steps to Control Spider Mites

To control spider mites and other sucking insects, spray the tree with Take Down Garden Spray or Safer's Trounce Yard & Garden Insecticide. Be sure to spray the underside of the leaves and repeat the spraying every seven to fourteen days, as necessary. For trees that are too tall to spray, treat with Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit.

Spittlebugs are small winged insects about a quarter of an inch in size. They attack trees and plants by feeding on sap. A noticeable sign that spittlebugs have infested a tree or plant is the distinctive juvenile spittlebug. Juvenile green nymphs excrete a white foamy mass around them when they are feeding on needles and leaves.

Recommended Steps to Control Spittlebugs

When only a few spittlebugs are on a tree or plant, they do very little harm. To control small numbers of spittlebugs, simply wash them off the tree with good spray from a garden hose. If a large number of spittlebugs appear on a tree, spray with Take Down Garden Spray, which will help control both adults and juveniles. Repeat the spray, as needed, every seven to fourteen days.

Thrips are tiny, almost microscopic, insects that are only about 1/16 of an inch long. There are many different varieties of Thrips and they can range in color from brown to black to tan. Thrips can be a serious pest for hundreds of different garden plants and trees. They cause their damage by ripping or scraping the surface of the leaf and then sucking sap from the leaves.

Recommended Steps to Control Thrips

When Thrips are identified, spray with Bug Buster Pyrethrin Insect Spray. Repeat spraying every seven to ten days until infestation is controlled. For trees that are too tall to spray, apply the Once-A-Year Insecticidal Drench w/Merit.

Recommended Steps to Control Wasps and Hornets

Keep food and garbage covered, to help minimize attractants for wasps and hornets. Use the Waspinator to keep wasps, bees, and yellowjackets away from eating areas. Capture the insects by placing an Oak Stump Yellowjacket Trap away from eating and activity areas, and to draw them away from human contact.

Recommended Steps to Control Whitefly

Recommended steps to Control Yellowjackets

Keep food and garbage covered, to eliminate attractants for wasps and hornets. Use the Waspinatorto keep wasps, bees, and yellowjacks away from eating areas. To capture the insects and draw them away from human contact, place an Oak Stump Yellowjacket Trapaway from eating and activity areas.