How to Plant a Tree
Giving your trees the right care from day one is essential
for long life and health. This means taking the time and care to
plant a tree properly.
When to Plant Trees
Climate plays a deciding role when determining the
appropriate planting time. Newly planted trees do best when exposed
to moderate temperature and rainfall and they need time to root and
acclimatize before the onset of intense heat and dryness of summer or the
freezing temperatures of winter. Spring and fall,
therefore, are generally the best planting seasons.
In the southern United States, however, which do not experience an
intense winter, planting can take place during the winter months. Palm
trees are an exception: they are best planted in the warmer, summer
months.
How To Plant Trees
While planting different types of trees differs in the
details, all trees eventually end up in a hole. But not any old hole will
do.
The most common mistake when planting a tree is a digging hole, which is
both too deep and too narrow. Too deep and the roots don’t have
access to sufficient oxygen to ensure proper growth. Too narrow and
the root structure can’t expand sufficiently to nourish and properly
anchor the tree.
As a general rule, trees should be transplanted no
deeper than the soil in which they were originally grown. The width of
the hole should be at least 3 times the diameter of the root ball or
container or the spread of the roots in the case of bare root trees. This will provide the tree with enough worked earth for its root structure
to establish itself.
When digging in poorly drained clay soil, it is important
to avoid ‘glazing’. Glazing occurs when the sides and bottom
of a hole become smoothed forming a barrier, through which water has
difficulty passing. To break up the glaze, use a fork to work
the bottom and drag the points along the sides of the completed hole.
Also, raising the bottom of the hole slightly higher than the surrounding
area. This allows water to disperse, reducing the possibility of
water pooling in the planting zone.
Planting Balled and Burlapped Trees
Balled and burlapped (B & B) trees, although best planted as soon as
possible, can be stored for some time after purchase as long as the ball
is kept moist and the tree stored in a shady area. B & B
trees should always be lifted by the ball, never by the trunk. The burlap surrounding the ball of earth and roots should either be cut
away completely (mandatory, in the case of synthetic or plastic burlap) or
at least pulled back from the top third of the ball (in the case of
natural burlap). Any string or twine should also be removed. Backfill soil (combinations of peat moss, composted manure, topsoil, etc.)
is then placed in the hole surrounding the tree just to the height of the
ball or slightly lower to allow for some settling. Be careful not to
compress the back fill soil as this may prevent water from reaching the
roots and the roots from expanding beyond the ball.
Planting Container Trees
Container trees (though subject to greater heat and drying conditions than
B and B) can also be stored for a brief period of time after purchase as
long as the soil in the container is kept moist and the tree stored in a
shady spot. The procedure for planting container trees is similar to
that for B & B trees. In the case of metal or plastic
containers, remove the container completely. In the case of fibre
containers, tear the sides away.
Once carefully removed from the container, check the
roots. If they are tightly compressed or ‘potbound’, use your
fingers or a blunt instrument (to minimize root tearing) to carefully
tease the fine roots away from the tight mass and then spread the roots
prior to planting. In the case of extremely woody compacted roots,
it may be necessary to use a spade to open up the bottom half of the root
system. The root system is then pulled apart or ‘butterflied’
prior to planting. Loosening the root structure in this way is
extremely important in the case of container plants. Failure to do
so may result in the roots ‘girdling’ and killing the tree. At the
very least, the roots will have difficulty expanding beyond the dimensions
of the original container. To further assist this, lightly break up
even the soil outside the planting zone. This allows roots that
quickly move out of the planting zone to be more resilient as they anchor
into existing surrounding soil conditions.
Once the tree is seated in the hole, the original soil is
then back-filled into the hole to the soil level of the container. Again, remember not to overly compress the back-filled soil especially by
tramping it with your feet. Compress gently using your hands
instead.
Planting Bare-Rooted Trees
Planting bare-rooted trees is a little different as there is no soil
surrounding the roots. Most importantly, the time between purchase
and planting is a more critical issue. Plant as soon as
possible. When purchasing bare-rooted trees, inspect the roots to
ensure that they are moist and have numerous lengths of fine root hairs
(healthy). Care should be taken to ensure that the roots are kept
moist in the period between purchase and planting. Prune broken or
damaged roots but save as much of the root structure as you can.
To plant, first build a cone of earth in the centre of the
hole around which to splay the roots. Make sure that when properly
seated on this cone the tree is planted so that the ‘trunk flare’ is
clearly visible and the ‘crown’, where the roots and top meet, is
about two inches above the soil level. This is to allow for natural
settling.
Fertilizers and Other Soil Amendments
After you plant your tree, there are certain products that
can be added to the soil to help the roots establish themselves. A
root-promoting fertilizer can help, but ensure that the fertilizer is not
simply placed in the planting hole. Fertilize the soil around the planting
hole as well to promote root expansion.
Mycorrhizal
Fungi is an extremely beneficial additive for newly planted trees.
By adding this all-natural, symbiotic fungus to the soil, you can both
promote the growth of the root system, and discourage the establishment of
damaging fungi that could hinder the tree's development.
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