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A Chinese wisteria blooms best with full sun, little or no nitrogen fertilizer, and pruning twice a year that turns long, leafy shoots into short spurs that carry flower buds. Patience matters too, because a vine grown from seed can take many years to flower at all.
Usually because of age, shade, extra nitrogen, or pruning at the wrong time. A young vine puts its energy into climbing, shade cuts flowering sharply, nitrogen from nearby lawn feeding pushes leaves instead of buds, and heavy cuts in late winter or spring remove buds that formed the summer before. TreeHelp's guide: Why Won't a Wisteria Bloom, and Is Fertilizer the Cause? covers the fertilizer side in detail.
By keeping growth short and close to the main framework. In summer, after flowering, the long, whippy new shoots are cut back to about five or six leaves, and in late winter those same shoots are shortened again to two or three buds, leaving stubby spurs where next year's flower clusters form.
The spent clusters are cut off before pods form. Deadheading saves the vine's energy for next year's buds and, because Chinese wisteria is considered invasive in much of the eastern and southeastern United States, it also keeps seeds from spreading beyond the garden.
Often ten years or more. Some seedlings take even longer, and a few rarely flower well.
Usually, yes. Vines grafted or grown from cuttings of a flowering plant tend to bloom within a few years of planting.
Sometimes. Cutting through some of the roots with a spade in fall can slow leafy growth and nudge the vine toward flowering, though results vary and it is best kept as a last resort.
A late frost is a common cause. Buds that swell early in spring can be killed by a cold night just before they open.