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Explore our library of articles to expand your knowledge of birds, trees, plants and lots more.
Learn how to keep your trees healthy year-round with clear, practical articles written to make tree care simple, accessible, and stress-free.
A pine stays healthy in full sun and well drained soil, with deep watering during droughts, a mulch ring over its roots, and as few root and trunk injuries as possible. Browning needles, sap oozing from small holes in the bark, and dead shoot tips are the problems to watch for, since each is easier to manage when caught early.
Because drought, compacted soil, and root damage weaken a pine's natural defenses, including the resin it uses to push out boring insects. Bark beetles and fungal diseases such as tip blight tend to take hold on pines that are already struggling.
Deeply during dry spells, across the whole root zone. Soil is moistened 12 to 24 inches down and out beyond the dripline, the outer edge of the branches, and mulch 2 to 3 inches deep, kept off the trunk, holds that moisture.
Where a pine is newly planted, with a trunk between one and eight inches across, a Treegator Original Slow Release Watering Bag around the base releases water slowly between deep soakings.
Four signs deserve a closer look:
Only lightly. Pines do not regrow from bare older wood, so cuts are kept to dead or damaged branches, and the soft new shoots, called candles, can be shortened in spring to keep a pine compact.
Often, yes. New needles grow from the buds at the branch tips, so a pine whose buds are still alive and flexible can leaf out again even after older needles drop.
Many do not. Salt spray from winter roads can brown the needles facing the road, so pines are best planted well back from salted pavement.
Whenever large limbs die, the tree begins to lean, or sap and holes appear over much of the trunk. A certified arborist can judge whether the pine can be saved or has become a hazard.