Have an account?
Log in to check out faster.
Loading...
🚛 FREE SHIPPING IN THE USA FOR ORDERS $125+ | $7.95 for All Other USA Orders
Explore our library of articles to expand your knowledge of birds, trees, plants and lots more.
Learn how to keep your trees healthy year-round with clear, practical articles written to make tree care simple, accessible, and stress-free.
The most common juniper problems are bagworms, spider mites, tip blight, winter browning, and root rot in wet soil. Most are fixed by catching them early, pruning out damaged growth in dry weather, and keeping the soil well drained.
Because junipers grow best in full sun, airy spots, and soil that drains quickly. Shade, crowding, and overwatering keep foliage and roots damp, which favors blights and root rot, while stressed plants are easier targets for pests.
By where and how the damage shows.
By removing bagworms by hand and treating mites early. Bags are picked off and destroyed between fall and early spring, before the eggs inside hatch.
Where spider mites or scale are found, Horticultural Oil Insect Spray can be sprayed onto the foliage following its label directions.
Mostly through pruning and site care. Blighted tips are cut out in dry weather, browned winter growth is trimmed in spring, deep fall watering before the ground freezes reduces winter drying, and soggy beds are improved so roots are not left sitting in water.
Yes. Junipers host one stage of the disease, and Do I Have to Remove My Juniper to Save My Apple Tree From Rust? covers how the two trees are managed together.
No. Needles that have fully browned stay brown, so those sections are pruned back to healthy green growth.
In late spring to early summer, while the newly hatched caterpillars and their bags are still small.
Rarely. Most junipers do not sprout from bare wood, so cuts are kept within the green, leafy part of each branch.