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Explore our library of articles to expand your knowledge of birds, trees, plants and lots more.
Learn how to keep your trees healthy year-round with clear, practical articles written to make tree care simple, accessible, and stress-free.
Setting a few ground rules with the contractor before work begins protects a tree's roots: a fence at the dripline, the ground beneath the outer edge of the branches, with no digging, parking, or stockpiling inside it, and tunnels instead of trenches for utility lines. Root damage can take years to show, so the rules are settled first.
Because most roots grow in the top 12 to 18 inches of soil and spread well past the branches, where excavation tears them, equipment crushes them, and stockpiled soil or paving cuts off their oxygen.
The agreement covers:
Open trenches stay at least this far away, by trunk diameter at chest height:
Closer to the trunk, utility lines are tunneled 3 to 4 feet deep.
Deep watering in dry spells, 2 to 4 inches of mulch kept off the trunk, and no fertilizer for a year or two on a badly stressed tree. To stretch the time between soakings, Hydretain Root Zone Moisture Manager is applied through a hose end sprayer and watered in.
Oaks, hickories, honeylocust, Kentucky coffeetree, horse chestnut, redbud, serviceberry, and all conifers are rated very sensitive. Silver maple, river birch, willow, cottonwood, and poplar tolerate root loss fairly well.
Not automatically. Only weak or dead branches are removed, and only while soil moisture is adequate.
Ideally while the trees being kept are leafless. Taking out neighbors in full leaf can suddenly expose the remaining trees to sunburn.
Yes, when severe damage is likely. Removing it beforehand costs less than taking down a declining tree after the work is finished.
Once the tree has recovered, usually a year or two after the work. From that point, TreeHelp Premium Fertilizer feeds slowly through the season, with one 3.3 pound bag treating a mature tree.