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A wisteria that already blooms a little flowers more when sunlight reaches its flowering spurs, when it is kept moist in late summer as next year's buds form, and when nitrogen from nearby lawn feeding is kept away from its roots. Keeping the short spurs that carry flowers, rather than cutting them off, matters as much as any feeding.
Because flower buds form on short side spurs during the previous summer, and anything that removes those spurs or stresses the vine at that time cuts next year's display. Shade over the spurs, drought in late summer, and heavy cutting all reduce the number of clusters.
Strongly, because spurs in shade rarely set buds. Thinning tangled growth on top of the vine and keeping nearby trees and shrubs trimmed back lets sun reach the inner framework, where many spurs sit.
Steady moisture in late summer helps buds form, and soil chemistry affects how well the vine feeds. A deep soaking during dry spells from midsummer on supports bud set, while nitrogen rich lawn fertilizer spread near the roots pushes leafy growth at the expense of flowers.
Pushing the probe of a Rapitest Soil pH Meter into wet soil beside the vine gives a quick pH reading, a useful check where growth looks pale or weak.
No. The short, knobby spurs along the main stems carry the flower buds, so they are left in place while long whippy shoots are shortened.
Usually a few weeks. Cool, calm weather stretches the display, while heat and wind shorten it.
Indirectly. A layer 2 to 3 inches deep holds moisture through late summer, when the next year's buds are forming.
Yes. Constantly soggy soil weakens the roots, so deep, occasional watering works better than frequent light watering.